Which acids are good for skin exfoliation?
Alpha hydroxy, beta hydroxy, and poly hydroxy acids are chemical exfoliants, which means you don't need to scrub your face to get brighter skin. Instead, it works gently but effectively to slough off dead skin cells and deep clean pores to reveal radiant and clear skin. They have anti-aging effects, such as smoothing fine lines and improving skin texture.
Acids can also do the following
Reducing inflammation, a major sign of acne, rosacea and other skin problems.
Reducing the appearance of large pores and surface wrinkles.
Remove dead skin cells.
Open and clean pores to prevent acne.
Improve overall skin texture.
It is available in many beauty and skin care products, including
Cleansers (face washes).
Serums.
Toners.
Facial scrubs.
Face masks.
Types of acids
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
They are water-soluble acids derived from sugar cane or other plant sources and can be prepared in the laboratory. It is generally recommended for normal, dry and sun-damaged skin to enhance the natural moisturizing factors within the skin. It has several types, including:
- Glycolic acid is found in sugar cane.
- Citric acid is found in citrus fruits.
- Malic acid is found in apples.
- Tartaric acid is found in grapes.
- Lactic acid is found in milk and pickled vegetables.
- Mandelic acid is found in almonds.
- Glycolic acid is the most widely used type in skin care products. Glycolic acid provides great exfoliation. This makes it a comprehensive treatment for many skin problems, and its antimicrobial properties, also help prevent acne.
- Lactic acid is manufactured from lactose found in milk. It is also known for its great exfoliation and anti-aging effects.
- Tartaric acid is not as widely known, made from grape extracts, and may help relieve signs of sun damage and acne.
- Citric acid made with citrus extracts. Its main purpose is to adjust the pH levels of the skin and soften rough patches of skin. Citric acid makes a good serum or toner to use before applying moisturizer. It may also help to work with sunscreen to provide maximum UV protection.
- Malic acid extracted from apples. It is not the most effective source as a single ingredient, so it is found in combination with other acids to be more effective.
- Mandelic acid contains larger molecules derived from almond extracts. It can be combined with other AHAs to increase exfoliation. When used alone, the acid may improve texture and pore size.
All AHAs produce significant exfoliation. Its maximum concentration should range between 10% and 15%.
The benefits for skin
The benefits on the outer layer of skin and the deep layer. They have an exfoliating effect, which increases the shedding of dead skin cells trapped on the surface. They do this by gently breaking down the bonds trapped between dead skin cells. Once cut, these cells can fall out or peel off.
Stimulates collagen production, making it ideal for those looking to reduce the appearance of fine lines. By increasing collagen synthesis by collagen-producing cells in the skin. It has also been proven effective in reducing visible signs of sun damage and wrinkles.
It can also treat the following
Acne.
Melasma (brown or gray patches of skin).
Hyperpigmentation (patches of dark skin).
Roughness.
Seborrhea.
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)
They are acids that can be obtained from some trees and plants and can be prepared in a laboratory. They work on the surface of the skin and pores, and are soluble in oil, so they are often preferred for combination to oily skin prone to pimples, and large pores. They are topical chemical exfoliants that work to balance oily skin, remove pimples, and combat acne.
Primarily used to treat acne and sun damage. These products penetrate deep to dry out excess oil and remove dead skin cells to unclog pores. Because of these effects, They most suitable for combination to oily skin types. They include the following types
- Beta hydroxybutanoic acid.
- Tropic acid.
- Trethocanic acid.
- Salicylic acid.
The most commonly used type is salicylic acid, which is known to fight bacteria and can be used to treat acne. In the highest concentrations it is used to treat warts. Salicylic acid helps exfoliate the skin naturally by allowing skin cells to separate from each other. This process can stop the formation of pimples and acne.
The benefits for skin
They increase the skin's resistance to UV damage and also have antibacterial effects that make them suitable ingredients for acne products, unclogging and cleansing pores.
Poly hydroxy acids (PHAs)
They are chemical exfoliants with large molecules, lighter than AHAs and BHAs. They are suitable for dry and sensitive skin because they moisturize the skin. They include the following types:
- Gluconolactone.
- Galactose.
- Lactobionic acid.
The benefits for skin
- Moisturizing the skin.
- Treating dehydration.
- Cell regeneration, reducing signs of aging, and stimulating collagen production.
- Skin pigmentation treatment.
- Purify pores.
- It has antioxidant properties against free radicals and ultraviolet rays.
Some skin care products that contain different types of acids
Mention some of the available products
- Face washes containing salicylic acid, such as
-Dermactive acti-clear gentle cleansing gel 200ml.
-Starville acne prone skin facial cleanser 200 ml and 400 ml.
- Toner containing acids such as
-Some by mi AHA BHA PHA 30 days miracle toner 150ml
-Cosrx AHA BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner
- Moisturizing creams containing salicylic acid, such as
-Vichy normaderm phytoaction acne moisturizer 50ml.
-Beesline whitening day gel SPF30.
- Facial masks containing glycolic acid, such as
-Isis Pharma Glyco A medium peeling 12%.
-Isis Pharma Glyco A soft peeling 5.5%.
- Serums containing salicylic acid, such as
-Beesline skin whitening serum, 30 ml.
-Beesline sebum control balancing serum 30 ml.
- Moisturizing creams containing mandelic acid, such as
-Pharmaceris night cream for acne 10% mandelic acid, 50 ml.
- Face washes containing mandelic acid, such as
-Pharmaceris T PURE SKIN SOLUTION for face, 3% mandelic acid, 190 ml.
- Face masks contain PHA
-Juice beauty green apple exfoliating mask.
-Glow recipe avocado melt retinol sleeping mask.
Side effects
Alpha, beta, and polyhydroxy acids are powerful moisturizers that have an exfoliating effect and can cause the following
Burning sensation on the skin.
Dry skin if overused.
Itching.
Skin irritation.
Increased risk of sunburn.
Products containing glycolic acid and lactic acid are safe if the concentration is 10% or less. Salicylic acid is safe if its formula is designed to avoid skin irritation and increased sun sensitivity and its concentration is 2% or less.
How to use the product safely
- Apply a little product to a small area of skin first. If there is a reaction, stop using the product.
- Follow product instructions exactly, and do not use more than recommended.
- Do not use the products on infants or children.
- Apply a broad spectrum sunscreen containing at least SPF 30 sun protection factor every day.
References
-https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/alpha-hydroxy-acid
-https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/alpha-hydroxy-acid
-https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/aha-vs-bha
-https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/beta-hydroxy-acids
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